Thursday, February 28, 2013
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Monday, February 25, 2013
Sunday, February 24, 2013
Saturday, February 23, 2013
Friday, February 22, 2013
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Bringing home a new dog
NEW dog how exciting!
Follow these tips to a successful start with your new pooch.
Follow these tips to a successful start with your new pooch.
Before you bring dog home
·
Buy all equipment you will need for owning a dog
o
Dog food, Treats
o
Equipment: Collar, Leash, Crate, Bed, Food and
water bowls
o
Toys: Nylabones, Kong etc.
o
Grooming supplies: Shampoo, brushes, etc.
·
Prepare your home
o
Secure trash cans so they are not easily
accessible
o
Secure any breakables that are at the dogs body or tail level
o
Secure backyard enclosure
·
Other
o
Know where your nearest 24 hr vet is located.
o
Have a family talk, that everyone knows to follow
the same rules
1st time dog comes home
o
Give the dog an opportunity to go potty 1st right after getting out of the car.
o
Bring the dog inside and let him/her sniff around
the house on leash (you can let it drag)
o
Then introduce to family members including other
animals in the house (10-15min.)
o
Take him/her to their crate and crate them for
about an 1hr. (assuming they are already crate trained)
§ Sets a
standard that this is your new home.. we love you but this will be your space
for now.. (crate should have toys, you can feed in the crate, have kong toys
stuffed with peanut butter to make it a positive space)
o
Bring out, play etc. Do not overwhelm the dog
with too much attention the 1st few days you have him/her. (he will
be lonely when you go to work the next day if he is overwhelmend with love the
1st day ..thinking this must be how life will be 24/7)
·
General Guidelines for the first 2-4weeks you own
the dog
o
Make a set of rules that you will follow and how
you and the rest of your family will be enforcing these rules. I always start with stricter rules and relax them later for example all new dogs in my house are not allowed on the furniture but once i trust and get to know the dog they are allowed by invitation only.
§ No
Jumping
§ No
Barking
§ Not
jumping on the furniture
o
Dog should have a dragline on in the house
§ 4 or 5ft
dollar tree leash to drag so if he gets into things you can catch and correct
o
Dog should always be supervised with other
animals in the household
o
Decide on a vet for your new pet, and take your
new dog in to visit the vet. Just to have a base line visit.
Interactions with other pets at home
- Make sure to give your other pet a break from the new dog and vice versa.
- Do not expect them to be best of friends right off, and do not push them to enjoy each other. Some dogs take more time than others.
- If they are unsure of each other crating them next to each other for short periods can be helpful that way they can see each other and sniff a little but not have direct physical contact.
Wednesday, February 20, 2013
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Monday, February 18, 2013
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Affenpinscher wins the Dog Show 2013
So the recent Westminster dog show for 2013 that was on TV the other night is the hot topic of discussion this week in the dog world.
The AFFENPINSCHER "Banana Joe" was the winner!
Heres what I have gathered about this particular dog from the various news sources
The AFFENPINSCHER "Banana Joe" was the winner!
Heres what I have gathered about this particular dog from the various news sources
- He responds to 4 languages: Dutch, English, Spanish and German
- This is his 86th best in show
- He is 5 years old. Pretty handsome for a 5 year old.
- 1st of his breed to win best in show out of 137 westminster dog shows.
Now what about this breed?
Have you ever heard of the Affenpinscher breed?
I have but your average person has probably not.
Heres some information for you about the breed
Fun Facts
- Affen = monkey in German thats why it can be referred to as the monkey faced dog
- Pinscher = terrier in German
- In France it is known as the Diabletin Moustache "the moustached little devil"
- Smallest of the pinschers and schnauzers
History
- It is debatable whether the Griffon Bruxellois contributed to the Affenpinscher or vice versa.
- Originated in Germany in the 1600s
- Was 1st used to rid the home and stables of rats and small vermin and also as lap dogs.
- This was a very popular breed in Germany up until World War II. After the war it has remained an extremely rare breed in Germany and America.
- Recognized by the AKC in 1936.
Temperment
- Terrier at heart: Busy, Inquisitive, Bold and Stubborn.
- Monkey like as well: Playful, mischievous and has been known to climb.
Coat and body
- Naturally scruffy looking toy dog has keen intelligence and is exceedingly affectionate. Its thick coat benefits from daily brushing.
- Height of: 9.5 -11in.
- Weight of 7-8lbs.
Overall the Affenpinscher is a nice breed that can be very active and needs attention and mental stimulation.
But please don't go looking for one just because it won best in show. When these rare breeds suddenly become in high demand because of popularity for a short time the chances of inbreeding and causing many inbred diseases goes way up.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
People SAFE foods for dogs
- Melons: Watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew are all healthy options for your pooch.
- Sunflower seeds (shelled): Skip the salt if possible, or serve in moderation.
- Peanut butter: Peanuts don't appear to cause allergies in dogs like they do in people.
- Berries (fresh and frozen): Blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, huckleberries or raspberries
- Cooked chicken: Ran out of your dog's regular food? Whether boiled, baked, served rotisserie-style or grilled, this food is a healthy substitute
- Scrambled eggs, hamburger, rice, pasta and/or oatmeal can serve as meal replacements in a pinch.
- Bananas
- Apple slices: Lauten recommends serving your pup seedless, organic apple slices NO SEEDS, Applesauce is also fine
- Baby Food - no sugars added
- Apricots - NO PITS
- Baby carrots: Fresh, crunchy vegetables are good for your dog's teeth.
- Broccoli
- Cauliflower (raw)
- Celery
- Green beans, cucumber, zucchini
- Yams / Sweet potatoes
- Brown Rice
- Organic Baby Food (w/no garlic or onion)
- Cook potatoes (but avoid too much because of sugar)
- Cooked Pasta
- Steamed asparagus, green beans, fresh peas, spinach, kale, cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, sweet potato, acorn squash
- Cooked salmon
- Yogurt is a good source of calcium and protein. You want one with live active bacteria and no sugars or sweeteners.
- Cooked Oatmeal
- Ground Flax Seed
- Pineapple has sugar but also has calcium and potassium. Great summer treat.
- Peas are a good source of B vitamin Thiamin, phosphorous and potassium.
- Cheerios
- Cottage Cheese
- String Cheese
- Nectarines - no pits
- Tomatoes - no greens or stems
- Tuna and the juice from canned tuna
Friday, February 15, 2013
Toxic people foods
Chocolate, Coffee, Caffeine
These products all contain substances called
methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to
make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by
pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive
thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures
and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk
chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines, while
baking chocolate contains the highest.
Alcohol
Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can
cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system
depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and
even death.
Avocado
The leaves, fruit, seeds and bark of avocados contain
Persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Birds and rodents are
especially sensitive to avocado poisoning, and can develop congestion,
difficulty breathing and fluid accumulation around the heart. Some ingestions
may even be fatal.
Macadamia Nuts
Macadamia nuts are commonly used in many cookies and
candies. However, they can cause problems for your canine companion. These nuts
have caused weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs.
Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12 to
48 hours.
Grapes & Raisins
Although the toxic substance within grapes and raisins is
unknown, these fruits can cause kidney failure. In pets who already have
certain health problems, signs may be more dramatic.
Pits and Seeds from Fruits
Apricot / Cherry / Peach / Plum, etc. and Seeds from Apples and Pears are not good for your dog.
Can cause respiratory difficulties such as breathing, coughing and sneezing.
Can cause respiratory difficulties such as breathing, coughing and sneezing.
Yeast Dough
Yeast dough can rise and cause gas to accumulate in your
pet’s digestive system. This can be painful and can cause the stomach or
intestines to rupture. Because the risk diminishes after the dough is cooked
and the yeast has fully risen, pets can have small bits of bread as treats.
However, these treats should not constitute more than 5 percent to 10 percent
of your pet’s daily caloric intake.
Mushrooms
Depending on the type of mushroom. The symptoms
may vary - depression, diarrhea, nausea and vomiting, abdominal pain, tearing,
hallucinations, defecation, liver failure, seizures, drooling, urination,
kidney failure, heart damage, hyperactivity and in some cases, death.
Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones
Raw meat and raw eggs can contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E.
coli that can be harmful to pets. In addition, raw eggs contain an enzyme
called avidin that decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin), which can
lead to skin and coat problems. Feeding your pet raw bones may seem like a
natural and healthy option that might occur if your pet lived in the wild.
However, this can be very dangerous for a domestic pet, who might choke on
bones, or sustain a grave injury should the bone splinter and become lodged in
or puncture your pet’s digestive tract.
Raw Marrow Bones are good for your dog if you get them from your pet store.
Xylitol
Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including
gum, candy, baked goods and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most
species, which can lead to liver failure. The increase in insulin leads to
hypoglycemia (lowered sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include
vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy
and seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few
days.
Onions, Garlic, Chives
These vegetables and herbs can cause gastrointestinal
irritation and could lead to red blood cell damage. Although cats are more
susceptible, dogs are also at risk if a large enough amount is consumed.
Toxicity is normally diagnosed through history, clinical signs and microscopic
confirmation of Heinz bodies. An occasional low dose, such as what might be
found in pet foods or treats, likely will not cause a problem, but we recommend
that you do NOT give your pets large quantities of these foods.
Milk
Because pets do not possess significant amounts of lactase
(the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk), milk and other milk-based
products cause them diarrhea or other digestive upset.
Some dogs are not lactose intolerant and plain yogurt in small amounts can be good for your dog.
A little hard cheese or cottage cheese is also good.
Salt
Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and
urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets. Signs that your pet may have
eaten too many salty foods include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors,
elevated body temperature, seizures and even death. In other words, keep those
salty chips to yourself!
If your dog eats any of these and you know they won't harm your dog to come back up you can induce vomiting.
To induce vomiting, give your pet 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (1 tablespoon per 15 pounds of the dog’s body weight) with an eye dropper, syringe, or turkey baster by dribbling the liquid onto the back of his tongue or into his cheek pocket until swallowed. Collect any vomit and take it, along with the poison container or other substance that you think you dog may have ingested and take it to the veterinarian
To dilute caustic poisons such as pine oils, detergents, bleaches, and swimming pool chemicals, feed your dog large quantities of water, milk, or egg whites. Activated charcoal (or even burned toast) may be recommended to absorb insect repellents like DEET.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Gluten Free Pumpkin + Peanut butter dog treats
Dog Cookie
Recipe
Recently tried a new recipe
for homemade dog treats and they are simple and the dogs love them.
Some of your dogs tried
these at the Howliday Party. Credit to the recipe goes to this website. We put this in the newsletter but decided to post it here too.
They are wheat and gluten
free for all of the dogs with allergies. We recommend that they are
refrigerated after they are baked.
When I make them I triple my recipe then I have lots to use for a while.
Ingredients
2 cups White Rice Flour
1/2 cup Peanut Butter
1 cup Pumpkin Puree
2 Eggs
1 teaspoon Cinnamon
2 cups White Rice Flour
1/2 cup Peanut Butter
1 cup Pumpkin Puree
2 Eggs
1 teaspoon Cinnamon
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
2. In a large bowl mix all ingredients one at a time, kneading well after each addition.
3. Knead dough into ball and roll onto a floured surface 1/4 inch thick. Cut with the cookie cutter of your choice.
4. Place on your prepared cookie sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool and refrigerate.
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit and line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
2. In a large bowl mix all ingredients one at a time, kneading well after each addition.
3. Knead dough into ball and roll onto a floured surface 1/4 inch thick. Cut with the cookie cutter of your choice.
4. Place on your prepared cookie sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool and refrigerate.
Dog Park Caution
Dog Park Caution
This is our caution for you regarding dog parks.
1st we love the concept of dog parks that socialized dogs can go play. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE that idea.
But we find that thats not quite the reality.
Before we consider the dogs and the social environment lets think about the dog park right now with no dogs present.
Who cleans the water bowls? Not rinsed and refilled.... cleaned! It doesn't happen...
You don't know who has been there.
Who's pooped on the ground who might have had worms....worms live on dirt for up to 8 months.
I personally know dogs that have gotten giardia, worms and even ring worm from dog parks as well as those pesky little fleas they can bring home.
For the health concerns alone I wouldn't even take my dogs into an empty dog park.
Now throw in all the dogs that are there right now. Not all dog parks.... but many of them the owners tend to have the mentality of "They'll work it out" - TRUE but in the wild they wouldn't all survive are we all ok with that? The constantly changing dynamics of the dog park create problems. Shy dogs become aggressive because there is no structure and they just get bullied. The pushy dogs learn to be punks and learn to push others around to get their way.
I work with countless dogs with dog aggression issues because they went to dog parks and learned bad manners that got worse. I've talked to people that get a new dog and take him to the dog park and let him go to see if hes ok with other dogs. Do you want your dog in the park to be someone elses test?
I believe that the socialization portion of letting dogs socialize with other dogs is fabulous but unclean dog parks with no structure or rules is not the way to go about socialization.
Look for a trainer in your area that offers Socialization Playgroups.
We offer a playgroup with lots of structure and rules and we have different groups of playgroups for the social dogs.. dogs that need to learn to be social and a special group for the littles.
We require that dogs have taken some form of training with us so that they will understand and we have a communication system with them when we do need to step in and interrupt behavior or redirect them on to something else.
PLEASE reconsider taking your dogs to dog parks. The risks highly out weigh any possible benefits.
This is our caution for you regarding dog parks.
1st we love the concept of dog parks that socialized dogs can go play. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE that idea.
But we find that thats not quite the reality.
Before we consider the dogs and the social environment lets think about the dog park right now with no dogs present.
Who cleans the water bowls? Not rinsed and refilled.... cleaned! It doesn't happen...
You don't know who has been there.
Who's pooped on the ground who might have had worms....worms live on dirt for up to 8 months.
I personally know dogs that have gotten giardia, worms and even ring worm from dog parks as well as those pesky little fleas they can bring home.
For the health concerns alone I wouldn't even take my dogs into an empty dog park.
Now throw in all the dogs that are there right now. Not all dog parks.... but many of them the owners tend to have the mentality of "They'll work it out" - TRUE but in the wild they wouldn't all survive are we all ok with that? The constantly changing dynamics of the dog park create problems. Shy dogs become aggressive because there is no structure and they just get bullied. The pushy dogs learn to be punks and learn to push others around to get their way.
I work with countless dogs with dog aggression issues because they went to dog parks and learned bad manners that got worse. I've talked to people that get a new dog and take him to the dog park and let him go to see if hes ok with other dogs. Do you want your dog in the park to be someone elses test?
I believe that the socialization portion of letting dogs socialize with other dogs is fabulous but unclean dog parks with no structure or rules is not the way to go about socialization.
Look for a trainer in your area that offers Socialization Playgroups.
We offer a playgroup with lots of structure and rules and we have different groups of playgroups for the social dogs.. dogs that need to learn to be social and a special group for the littles.
We require that dogs have taken some form of training with us so that they will understand and we have a communication system with them when we do need to step in and interrupt behavior or redirect them on to something else.
PLEASE reconsider taking your dogs to dog parks. The risks highly out weigh any possible benefits.
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Waking you up because they want to be fed
I have had 2 lessons this week with owners having the troubling behavior of the dogs waking them up tooo early in the morning because the dogs want to be fed.
One of them is actually getting up at 3am to feed let the dog out and go back to bed just so the dog will let them finish sleeping.
I figure this is a perfect topic for the blog!
If you are already having this trouble with your dog i recommend crating them so that they cannot get to you to bug you to wake you up.
In general I recommend not feeding the dogs at the same time every night or morning. Mix up so they are never expecting a given time.
For example some mornings mine eat as soon as i'm awake and sometimes its a 1/2hr after that or even 1 or 2 hours after Im awake and I tend to wake up at different times depending on the day. I always take them out 1st thing to potty but I wait to feed them most mornings, I also change it up between who eats 1st and I feed the cats around the same time as the dogs. So sometimes the cats eat 1st and sometimes its the dogs but again not necessarily right after each other so they are never expecting.
Same with in the evening... Sometimes they eat before i leave for teaching classes around 5pm and sometimes its when i get home around 9pm. I just make sure they have enough time to potty before bed.
With this schedule I have never had a problem with anyone waking me up to early or pestering me to be fed.
Hope this is helpful and you can both have a good nights sleep.
One of them is actually getting up at 3am to feed let the dog out and go back to bed just so the dog will let them finish sleeping.
I figure this is a perfect topic for the blog!
If you are already having this trouble with your dog i recommend crating them so that they cannot get to you to bug you to wake you up.
In general I recommend not feeding the dogs at the same time every night or morning. Mix up so they are never expecting a given time.
For example some mornings mine eat as soon as i'm awake and sometimes its a 1/2hr after that or even 1 or 2 hours after Im awake and I tend to wake up at different times depending on the day. I always take them out 1st thing to potty but I wait to feed them most mornings, I also change it up between who eats 1st and I feed the cats around the same time as the dogs. So sometimes the cats eat 1st and sometimes its the dogs but again not necessarily right after each other so they are never expecting.
Same with in the evening... Sometimes they eat before i leave for teaching classes around 5pm and sometimes its when i get home around 9pm. I just make sure they have enough time to potty before bed.
With this schedule I have never had a problem with anyone waking me up to early or pestering me to be fed.
Hope this is helpful and you can both have a good nights sleep.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Cardboard box problem solving games
I love teaching dogs how to think and figure things out on their own.
It can be great confidence building as well as great mental stimulation.
One of my favorites that is very simple is teaching them words associated with a box.
I start with teaching a marker word. "YES" is what I use.
Some like to use a clicker instead of a word.. I just find that clicker, treats, and leash is too much for me and i don't always have a clicker with me.
I start with saying "Yes" and feed the dog a treat immediately after.
DO NOT say the word and FEED at the same time. Must be after the word is said.
I get out a cardboard box and start really simple... I encourage the dog to go check it out.
The dog touches it or sniffs it at all and i say "Yes" and treat them.
I do this.. maybe 5-8 times in a row so now the dog is completely engaged with this box means good things.
Then I will have the box flipped over and encourage the dog to touch it with his/her paw.
I lure the dog with the food toward the box and upward. Initially the dog will accidently touch the box and you will say "Yes" and treat. Do this multiple times once the dog starts associating that his paw touching the box gets the treat you can start adding a word to it. "Paw"/"Touch" etc...
I would give the dog a break at this time and continue more in a bit or later on.
Other things I do with the box... depending on the size of the box
after each thing I have put suggestions for what you can call it... just suggestions you can call it anything you would like.
In between each of these give your dog a short break..
DON't try to do all of this in one day.
Each one of these is a lot of thinking. Please keep your training sessions short no more than 5 minutes.
MOST of all HAVE FUN!
It can be great confidence building as well as great mental stimulation.
One of my favorites that is very simple is teaching them words associated with a box.
I start with teaching a marker word. "YES" is what I use.
Some like to use a clicker instead of a word.. I just find that clicker, treats, and leash is too much for me and i don't always have a clicker with me.
I start with saying "Yes" and feed the dog a treat immediately after.
DO NOT say the word and FEED at the same time. Must be after the word is said.
I get out a cardboard box and start really simple... I encourage the dog to go check it out.
The dog touches it or sniffs it at all and i say "Yes" and treat them.
I do this.. maybe 5-8 times in a row so now the dog is completely engaged with this box means good things.
Then I will have the box flipped over and encourage the dog to touch it with his/her paw.
I lure the dog with the food toward the box and upward. Initially the dog will accidently touch the box and you will say "Yes" and treat. Do this multiple times once the dog starts associating that his paw touching the box gets the treat you can start adding a word to it. "Paw"/"Touch" etc...
I would give the dog a break at this time and continue more in a bit or later on.
Other things I do with the box... depending on the size of the box
after each thing I have put suggestions for what you can call it... just suggestions you can call it anything you would like.
In between each of these give your dog a short break..
DON't try to do all of this in one day.
Each one of these is a lot of thinking. Please keep your training sessions short no more than 5 minutes.
MOST of all HAVE FUN!
- Put Front 2 Paws on box "Front Paws"
- Put Back 2 Paws on box "Back Paws
- Put all 4 Paws up on box "Climb"
- Touch it with his nose "Nose"
- move the box with his nose "Nudge"
- Put their mouth on the box "Get it"/"Munch" / "snack" / "hold"
- Picking up the box with "mouth" and moving it
- flip the box over "Flip it"
- Have the box open upward get the front 2 Paws in the box "Front Paws in"
- Have the box open upward get the back 2 paws in the box "Back Paws In"
- All 4 paws in the box "Get in"
I think that's enough to get you started!
If you want help learning how to teach these I'd be happy to come to your home and work on this with you and your dog in a private lesson.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)