4th of July!

4th of July is rapidly approaching have you thought about your dog?!
Some dogs don't mind the noise and can go out with you and your family in all the noise, fun, and caos this holiday brings. 
Did you know that the 4th of July and the 5th of July is the busiest day of the year for our animal shelters. They are crowded already and they hardly have room to house the dozens of dogs that escape and break out from the fear and sounds of the fireworks. 

MICROCHIPPING CAN SAVE YOUR DOGS LIFE and BRING HIM HOME
Please, Please, Please Microchip your dogs, even if they wear id tags those can come off, and with a microchip they can still find their way back home to you quickly and safely.
Getting your dog a Microchip is quick and no different than a simple shot and it will last forever.
VIP will be at Pet Food Express in Roseville on Tuesday evening from 3:30 - 7:30pm and they would be happy to microchip your pet for $39. Small price well invested to keeping your dog safe.

TAKING YOUR DOG WITH YOU
If you plan to take your dog with you to the festivities and your dog doesn't react to the loud noises please make sure your dog CANNOT slip out of their collar and keep them on a short leash with you.


LEAVING YOUR DOG AT HOME
If you have a dog that is fearful or easily frightened by noises or if its your first 4th of July with your dog and you do not know how they might act.

•  Keep them indoors. If you have a doggy door close it. I have seen dogs bust right through well secured fences or jump fences when they have never tried before.
• Exercise them during the day or early morning a tired dog is much less reactive to things they are fearful of. 
• Keep their brains busy while you are gone a kong with peanut butter or a treat ball works great.
• Leave the tv or radio on rather loud and maybe a fan too to help buffer the outside noises.
• Try talking to your vet if your dog is very fearful - your vet might have a mild drug that will help your dog cope with the noise.
• Their are a many number of things you can buy and try at your local pet store all dogs are different so these won't work for all dogs but you can definitely try them out and see if they will work for yours.
• Calming pills
• Aromatic plug ins that help to calm
• Thundershirt
• etc..

ALTERNATIVES TO LEAVING YOUR DOG AT HOME

• Stay home with your dog :)
• Take your dog to a daycare or boarding facility that is small scale in someones home where your dog will not be alone for the evening while you are out. 
• Or a friend or family members house who adores your dog and plans on staying in for the evening. 

I wish you and your dogs a happy and safe 4th of July!
As always feel free to call or email me with any additional questions you may have.
trainer@pawsinprogress.com
www.pawsinprogress.com
office (916) 735-7496 / cell (916) 956-8036

CGC (Canine Good Citizen)

The AKC designed the CGC certification to help promote responsible dog owners.

The Responsible dog owners Pledge

•  Owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.

The test items that you are physically tested on

Test Items

Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger

Your dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog.  The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.

Test 3: Appearance and grooming

This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). 

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)

This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction.

Test 5: Walking through a crowd

This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. 

Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place

This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. 

Test 7: Coming when called

This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog.

Test 8: Reaction to another dog

Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction

The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. 

Test 10: Supervised separation

This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. Dog should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. 

Benefits of CGC

• Discounts on Homeowners insurance (Especially for "bully breeds" or shepherds) or some Homeowners insurance companies will waive the breed restrictions
• A Canine Good Citizen is a friendly, well-behaved dog that we can take virtually anywhere without risk or bother to others.
• Some hotels or motels will allow dogs with a CGC.
• Some landlords will allow you to have a dog with a CGC when they normally wouldn't allow dogs.
• The training for the CGC is a great time to better your relationship with your dog and form a tighter bond.
• The CGC is a great stepping stone for future training: obedience competition, pet therapy, agility and lots more. 

Building a 1st Aid Kit for your Dog

Humans have 1st Aid Kits at home and sometimes in the car. Have you thought about one for your 4-legged friend?
It is always a good idea to keep one on hand at home and one in the car for when you take day trips with your pup.
What does a doggie 1st aid kit need to have in it?
You can build your own doggie 1st aid kit or most pet stores sell them too.
I have provided a list of things to include in your doggie 1st aid kit, and explained their uses for the things that aren't obvious.


Here is a list of things that your doggie 1st aid kit should have:....
- Gauze Pads at least 10 4X4
- Gauze Tape
- Hydrogen Peroxide (Check the expiration date) 5ml or 5cc's per 10lbs of dog weight
        -Will induce immediate vomiting if you need your dog to throw up something they swallowed.
- Syringe that will hold 30ml of liquid (use for peroxide)
- Hydrocortisone ointment
- Triple Antibiotic Ointment
- Scissors

- Eyewash
- Tweezers
- Pediolyte or other balanced electrolyte fluid
- Large towl
- Gloves
- 1 inch white tape
- Vet rap (self clinging bandage)
- liquid bandage
- Ace elastic bandage
- emergency ice pack
- Benadryl 25mg - for allergies
- Buffered Asprin
- Muzzle
- Thermometer (both oral and rectal thermometers can be used rectally) keep some sort of lube handy for your pup when you use the thermometer.
- Paperwork: 

Health record, medications, local and national poison control numbers, regular vet clinic hours and telephone numbers as well as a list of the 24hr vets and their hours in your area. Make sure to add too this list when you travel with your pet. 

Socialization Checklist for Puppies

The following is a list of possible things to socialize your puppies with. 
Keep in mind while socializing your puppy encourage and get excited with them about approaching and checking out the item or person. Use food or toys along with your enthusiastic voice to build confidence. Try to stay away from the words "It's ok" as we as humans naturally use a different tone that sounds more like coddling and ultimately makes the puppy more nervous. If your puppy is very nervous or afraid to approach something - Praise for progress and break it down to be smaller and less scary. Example: If the puppy is afraid of a person praise and treat for the puppy getting closer to the person, then let the person feed a treat to your puppy without them petting your puppy. In a week after the puppy's confidence has been boosted by getting treats from people have people start petting your puppy on their chest, and move to the head. This is a very long list and I understand it is not realistic to ask you to do ALL of these things with your puppy but it may give you some ideas.
Best of Luck!




PEOPLE

• Kids
• Babies/Infants
• Teenagers
• Men
• Women
• Elderly 
• People of all different races
• People of all different heights and weights
• Deep voices, high voices
• Facial hair, beards
• Long hair, short hair

PEOPLE WEARING

• shoes, heels, boots, flip flops
• jackets, raincoats, sweatshirts with hoods
• hats, sunglasses

People with

• Umbrella
• Wheelchair
• Walker
• Crutches
• Cane
• Stroller
• Shopping Cart

PEOPLE DOING:

• Running
• Skateboarding
• Bicycling
• Wrestling
• Shouting
• Clapping
• Singing
• Crowds

OTHER ANIMALS

• Dogs and Puppies 
• (Little, Medium, Large, Extra-large)
• All Different colors (Black, white, brown..etc.)
• All different coats (Long hair, short hair..etc.)
• Different tails (Curly tail, straight tail, docked tail)
• Different personalities (friendly, playful, serious)
• Cats
• Horses and farm animals
• Geese, Ducks etc.

THINGS IN AND AROUND YOUR HOME

• Washing machine (while its on)
• Dryer
• Vaccum
• Dishwasher
• Heater
• Fan
• Leaf blower
• Lawnmower (make sure your puppy is on leash and that you introduce them to the sound and to teach them to keep their distance)
• Doorbell
• Radio
• TV
• Hair dryer
• Coffee grinder
• Nail file /dremmel
• Screaming / Laughing Children
• Garage door

OUTSIDE AND FIELD TRIPS

• Statues
• Garbage Trucks, Mail trucks, Delivery vans
• Shopping Carts
• Honking
• Traffic sounds
• Barking dogs
• Home Depot
• Pet Food Express and other pet stores (Don't set young puppies on the ground in pet stores)
• Walk around a local college campus
• Kids playground
• Elementary School
• Puppy Preschool
• Hiking
• Open Field
• Beach
• City streets
• Neighbors houses
• Friends houses
• Car Wash  - Go through a car wash with your dog

SURFACES

• Tile 
• Grass
• Cement
• Grates
• Plastic
• Gravel
• Dirt
• Sand
• Wet
• Slippery
• Uneven flooring
• Wood
• Bark
• Shallow water
• Deep water
• Stairs

Best of Luck! Have fun socializing your puppy!

Crate Training

CRATE TRAINING


WHY USE A CRATE?

• Crate will keep your puppy or dog safe when you can't be watching them.
• The Crate acts as a babysitter for your dog. 
• It keeps your dog from getting into or eating things that may be harmful to him/her, and it also keeps your house safe from things he/she may get into or destroy.
• Teaches your dog manners and how to act as he/she starts to earn freedoms.
• In the wild dogs/wolves naturally look for and like to have a den, this is the way your dog views his crate.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF CRATES:

 
• Soft Crate: These are easily collapsible and easy to take with you. Many small dogs do well in these crates as well as mellow or older dogs. If your dog has any tendency to chew or be frustrated I do not recommend these crates. These crates are generally not the best for most puppies. Although, I will take these crates with me for camping trips, car rides and times when I need the dog confined but I am still in the area or within eye sight of the dog. 
• Wire Crate: Most wire crates are easy to fold down. Most have a door on one side some have doors on 2 sides which can be convenient, the wire crates also come with a plastic tray for the bottom.  Wire crates work well for most dogs. I recommend the "Precisions" Brand wire crates; the plastic in the bottom of those crates is a little tougher and more durable plastic than "Midwest" or "Lifestages".
• Plastic Crate: These crates take up a little more room and are not as compact to take down or travel with. That being said, these crates are very durable and tend to contain the tougher of dogs. Over the years I have had a few rescue shepherds that have escaped or broken out of wire crates but the plastic crates worked great! 
• Aluminum Crate: These you should never need for a pet dog. If you compete in dog sports, or have a dog with very high drive sometimes these crates are necessary. Many Police and military use these crates for their dogs.

WHAT SIZE CRATE IS BEST FOR MY DOG?

• Make sure that it is just big enough for your dog to lay down, turn around and stand up comfortably.
• THINGS TO CONSIDER
• Is it a puppy? Are we still working on housebreaking? - If so I make the crate a little bit smaller just to make sure the puppy doesn't have room to lie down on one end and can still potty in the other.
• How long is your dog or pup going to be alone in the crate? If it is for a longer period of time towards 8hours - i get them a slightly bigger crate with more room.

INTRODUCING THE CRATE 

• Bring the crate into the house. It does not have to stay in one room. You can have it in the living room during the day and in your bedroom at night if you wish.
• Make sure to put a blanket, dog bed or something soft and comfortable in the crate. 
• Let your dog sniff and check it out on their own. While you are home toss some treats every so often  into the crate or their favorite toy to encourage them to go in on their own. at this time DO NOT shut the door when they go in. (Allow them to do this, checking it out and getting good things from the crate for at least one whole day). I recommend feeding them in the crate, again I don't shut the door, I just put their food in the crate. This helps the crate become a positive thing to the dog/puppy.
• 1st time putting the dog in and closing the door: Guide the dog into the crate, at this time DO NOT put food in first. When the dog is in the crate give them a treat, and make sure that the dog has something to do in their crate. (Nylabone to chew on, Kong filled with Peanut Butter etc.) Stand by the dogs crate, do not talk to the dog, ignore any whinning, and try not to make eye contact with the dog. Wait 1 whole minute and let the dog out. Practice this gradually increasing the amount of time with you in the room, then start practicing for short periods of time with you leaving the room.
• Over the next week, start putting the dog in their crate for 1,2,5,10,15minutes up to an hour or two. Build up slowly over the week. 
• While your dog is still getting used to his/her crate when you are home and the crate door is open toss treats in for your dog, to encourage it being a positive place.

HOW LONG CAN I LEAVE MY DOG IN THE CRATE?

• This answer depends on your dogs age and where they are at on housebreaking and how long they can physically hold their bladders.
• If you have to leave your dog for long hours in the crate. Make sure to thoroughly exercise your dog first, and have given them enough time to process their meal and go potty before crating them.  If you have a puppy i do not recommend leaving water in the crate with the puppy. Older dogs that have more control of their bladders can drink some water in their crates and not make messes. 
• If you have a puppy and work 8-10hours a day, I recommend that you hire a dog walker to come in and let your dog out sometime mid-day if you are not able to come home for lunch. 

WHEN CAN I STOP USING THE CRATE?

• Some people like to use it forever, but it's not necessary.
• I use it with puppies and rescue dogs until they have learned manners in the house and I can trust them.
• Once a dog is crate trained and they are starting to mature a little I may give them more freedom. I may let the dog have run of the bathroom or kitchen, but again I leave them with toys and a bed. Ideally and what I have found with the dogs I've had, is that while you crate train your dogs they learn good habits when you are gone (chewing on their toy, and sleeping) and this is all they know, so as you start to slowly give them freedoms to the house they keep the habits they learned in their crate and are better behaved and alot less destructive when you are gone.

ADDITIONAL BENEFITS OF CRATE TRAINING

• Friends and Family or more willing to watch your pet at their house when you are out of town or have a family emergency because your dog can be in a crate comfortably. If your dog is used to his/her crate dogs generally don't mind where they are crated as long as they can be in their crate. 
• Crating dogs in the car - gives them a better chance of surviving an accident and makes it alot less likely that they cause the accident, by running about the car or jumping into the front seat.
• Inns and Motels are more open to accepting dogs if you promise to crate the dog when you leave the room, and in a strange place your dog is comfortable in his/her crate

Please Contact Eleza at Paws In Progress if you have any additional questions or concerns about your dog and use of the crate.

(916) 735-7496

trainer@pawsinprogress.com

www.pawsinprogress.com

Digging

Does your dog dig? One hole after another? Always digging up the holes you've just filled? Digging out of the yard?
1st lets address why dogs dig.

• Boredom
• Need an outlet for energy
• To bury things
• Place to stay cool
• Digging for rodents

Now that we have a few reasons for why dog's dig how do we solve the problem?

1st start by assessing

• Is your dog getting exercise? Does he/she have an outlet for their energy?
• No? Try a walk/bike ride before you leave for the day. Through the ball in the backyard or at your local park.
• Is your dog getting any mental stimulation when you are home?
• Join a training class and practice during the week to engage your dogs mind and to exhaust them mentally. Teach your dog new tricks, even if they are pointless, this will keep their mind busy. Play games with your dog.. hiding their toys, or treats and teaching them to find them.
• Does your dog have anything to entertain itself with when left alone?
• No? Try toys... A kong filled with peanut butter, or freeze chicken noodle soup in a kong for your pup to lick at all day. Get a treat ball for your dog. Buster Cube balls work great! Fill it up with treats and your pup will be busy for hours moving it around to get all the treats out. Or hide treats for your dog - take a handful of treats or break them up into small pieces and sprinkle them around the yard in various places each day and your dog will spend his time finding all of the treats. Make sure to leave your pup with a nylabone or sterilized beef bone to chew on. 
• Maybe he/she needs a space to dig?
• Try giving your pup a designated area to dig. Teach them to dig in this one area. Or you can get a kiddie pool or sandbox and fill it with dirt or sand and teach them to dig in this spot.
• Does your dog have a cool place in the yard?
• Make sure your pup has a shaded cool place to lie down. Or provide a kiddie pool with a shallow amount of water for them to cool off in
• Do you have rodents in your yard?
• If your pup is trying to get at, or keep the rodents out of your yard, look into calling an exterminator or looking up pet safe ways to keep rodents away.
• Is your dog spayed or neutered?
• It is very common for an unaltered dog to want to get out to find a mate. Think about altering your dog. There are many many health benefits for your dog in neutering or spaying your pup, in addition to saving your yard.
• Do you have to leave your dog outside unsupervised?
• This is the simplest solution if it is possible. If they aren't left outside unsupervised they won't dig holes. 
• Is your dog always burying his bones?
• Don't give him/her the bones he/she buries when they are outside

If you have assessed these options and reasons why your dog may be digging and have tried implementing above here are some additional tips and tricks to help stop your digging pup.

• What to do with the holes and dogs that dig out
• Try burying their poop in the hole (unless they are a poop eater)
• Try partly filling the hole with dirt, covering it with chicken wire, then cover with dirt again. The idea is the dog doesn't like the feel of the wire on their paws, and you can plant grass seed the grass will grow through the chicken wire. 
• Bury a balloon in the holes, and your dog will get a big surprise when he/she goes to dig again. (Make sure that your dog is not the kind of dog that will eat the balloon remnants if you try this)

I hope this information helps you and your digging friend.

Feel free to contact me for more information or advice if these tips and tricks don't work for you

trainer@pawsinprogress.com

www.pawsinprogress.com

(916) 735-7496

Have a diggity dog good day!

~Eleza

Whining

Why do they do it?

1. How they get attention from their mothers at an early age
2. Seeking attention
3. Uncomfortable
4. Pain
5. Uncomfortable in a new environment (crate etc.)
6. Bored
7. Lonely
8. Needs to go potty
9. Unused Energy
10. Hungry or Thirsty
11. Whine because it works
12. Fear
13. Excited
14. Anxious
15. Could be caused by separation anxiety

Things to ensure before you try corrections

1. Dry, Warm, Safe, Comfy area
2. Make sure dog is fed and watered
3. Take dog out to potty
4. Tasty dog chew toys are accessible (nylabone, sterilized beef bones, kong filled with peanut butter   etc.)
5. Burn off energy- Leash walks, Games (find it, fetch etc.), brain stimulation obedience training
6. Your scent in their crate or space - old shirt
7. Trip to the vet if there is any chance they are in pain
8. Wrapping an old ticking clock up in a towel
9. Never reward undesirable behavior

Things to try
1. Increases with reinforcement, Decreases without reinforcement
2. Ignore the behavior - no matter how hard it may be
3. Some dogs take anything as a reward - yelling at the dog even though its negative attention is still attention.
4. Squirt bottle - Don't let the dog see you squirt (him/her) it should surprise the dog enough to break the whinning
5. Covering the crate
6. Air horn, Shaker can (making a noise that will startle the dog enough to interrupt the behavior)
7. Teaching them how to whine - so its on cue (if you have the on switch you have an off switch.)