Head Halters

Head halters can be a very useful tool for some types of dog training.

Just like harnesses Head halters tend to be a management tool not necessarily a training tool.

When you take the head halter off your dog will not walk as well as when it was on.

But it can be great for people that don't want anything other than to be able to walk their dogs.

If not used properly it can rub and hurt the bridge of the dogs nose.

It can also be a great tool for having control of the mouth. When working with a dog that can be dog reactive   it can be great for doing close dog on dog training and still having control of the mouth if you need it. 

Or dogs that can be people aggressive you still can have control of the mouth when needed. 

The head halters are not a muzzle. They don't do anything to restrict the mouth unless you are pulling up on it. 

When using a head halter we recommend the HALTI collar.

We like the fact that the Halti has a safety strap going from the connection for the leash to the collar.

This halti is not properly fitted on this fake dog head. The neck strap behind the head should be right up directly behind the ears.

There are other variations and types of head halters.
Another one is the Gentle leader. If you use the gentle leader make sure to make your own safety strap because they don't come with one.  They can also be a lot harder to fit properly without the help of a trainer.

Harnesses

A harness is a restraint and for most dogs just tends to teach them to pull.

We don't recommend a harness for teaching loose leash walking.

If you think about it.. police dogs have harnesses, sled dogs have harnesses, mountain dogs that pull carts have harnesses. Harnesses teach dogs to pull. 

So in some instances we use this to our advantage.

Puppies under 16weeks we recommend the use of a harness so that it is just management and they are not learning to pull on their collar. Until they are ready to start basic obedience training.

If a dog already has an existing neck injury and for some small dogs we may use a harness but it is not necessary to use a harness with all small dogs.

We use harnesses to help teach a restrained recall. Some dogs just lope their way on over to their owners when called. To make coming to you sooo much more exciting we teach a restrained recall. 

In the following video the handler is just holding onto the dog but it can be much easier with a harness and just restraining the dog http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yMw3RdrFxQ

There are many different types of harnesses available.

Standard harness that we recommend for use just as management and to restrain should look like this one...

 There are other types of harnesses like this easy walk harness to the left.
For a dog with a soft personality this can work as management for some dogs that can help limit the strain on you when pulling. It does not stop pulling and you will not be able to take it off and the dog still walk nicely.

There are many other harnesses available that are supposed to stop pulling as well. Again all of these are management tools that can help with pulling on a soft personality dog. But will not stop pulling altogether. 

Flat Collar

We recommend that flat collars are only used for tags.
Many MANY dogs are capable of slipping out of a flat collar.
If your dog doesn't need a training collar we always recommend a martingale collar that they cannot slip out of.
There are many different materials that flat collars can be made of nylon, cotton and leather.
The different types are...


Buckle Collar

 Quick Release Collar

Breakaway Collar












Just like all other collars we do not recommend that you just let the dog pull against it.
We also never recommend that any collar is left on any dog unsupervised. In a crate, house, backyard or any other area unsupervised. But PLEASE Microchip your dogs!

Martingale Collar

A Martingale collar is like a normal flat collar but it tightens just enough that the dog can't slip out of it.
I like to use a martingale as a normal collar instead of a flat collar most of the time. Just to ensure the dog can't slip out of it.  We like these collars.
Just like all other collars we do not recommend that you just let the dog pull against it.
We also never recommend that any collar is left on any dog unsupervised. In a crate, house, backyard or any other area unsupervised. But PLEASE Microchip your dogs!

They can come with a chain portion

With a form of quick release

All nylon

Nylon with a quick release

Prong Collar

We HIGHLY recommend you see a trainer to ensure proper fitting and usage of a collar for your dog!
Prong Collars can be seen as a "painful" tool or only for bad dogs.
The type of collar you use for your dog is based on what works best for both you and your dog.
Prong Collars can be a FABULOUS tool when used CORRECTLY!
Prong Collars should fit snug on the neck so that it does not flip around while on the dogs neck.
When putting a prong collar on you disconnect the links and fit it around the dogs neck.
NEVER should it be slid over the dogs head.

When I fit a prong collar I prefer to have the chain portion under the neck. The prong collar should also fit up high on the neck.
One in a million times a prong collar will randomly come undone for no apparent reason. It will be at the worst possible time ever. I HIGHLY advise that you backup the prong collar with a slip collar. I hook the leash up to both rings.
When using a prong collar it should stay LOOSE unless you are making a correction.
A prong collar is NOT to put on a dog to stop pulling by letting the dog pull until it is uncomfortable. There is a proper way to use every collar PLEASE seek out the help of a professional before you put equipment on your dog.
Be VERY careful about what you use your prong collar for. A Prong simulates a bite and if you are trying to correct dog reactivity you definitely don't want to use a prong unless otherwise specified by your trainer.
Some dogs elevate and get more intense with a prong than they would with a different collar on.
The dogs personality also depends on whether a prong should be used.
Technically a prong collar is more "humane" than a slip collar as it distributes the weight evenly around the the neck and doesn't concentrate on any one area.
The prong collar can mean using less pressure to get the desired results instead of harder corrections. Can also be great for people who don't have alot of strength to wrestle with the dog.

 Here is an example of backing up your collar.
This dog has both a prong and a type of slip chain hooked up together.

Here is another way to backup your collar.
Leerburg now makes a special leash specifically for backing up your prong collar. You can also use a double down leash or european leash.







WE DO NOT recommend using this type of prong to the left.
This is made to be fitted as a flat collar. We don't recommend you use a prong like this.





Your traditional prong collar looks like this. Where you take it apart anywhere by unhooking the links and hooking them together around the dogs neck

Some people feel bad about using a prong collar or for a dog with a more sensitive skin around the neck like Boxers, Pit Bulls, some hounds. Adding these can be an option. These are little plastic caps for the tips of the prongs. 

Or if you just want to avoid dealing with others that do not understand the use of the prong collar. There are many different things that you can buy or make to put on your prong collar to make it look like a normal collar. I often just suggest to put a bandanna on on top if you are worried at all. 

The prongs can stick and can be difficult to pinch to get out and back in. Or some people don't have alot of strength in their hands and may want to look into a different option in design in putting the prong collar on. 

The prong collar with the quick release collar can be found at most petsmart locations. This can be MUCH easier to use than trying to undo the normal prongs and putting them back together.

They also make a quick release normal prong. I advise against this one as I have found that it tends to come apart ALOT more and winds up being more trouble than it is worth. 

 There is a plastic style prong collar available.
THis collar doesn't come apart as easily as the traditional prong collar
We also don't feel that this collar is as effective as the normal prong collar.

You can always purchase extra links if the collar you buy doesn't have enough 

I generally advise the smaller prong collar and just to buy more links. The 2.25mm.

They make one even smaller but normally it needs to be ordered online it is called a micro mini prong - works well for smaller breeds.





Just like all other collars we do not recommend that you just let the dog pull against it.
We also never recommend that any collar is left on any dog unsupervised. In a crate, house, backyard or any other area unsupervised. But PLEASE Microchip your dogs!

Slip Collars

There are so many different types of equipment out there to use with your dog. All dogs are different and have different personalities - and require different levels of equipment.  All equipment has its time and place. Using higher equipment does not mean you have a bad dog, that's just what your dog needs for now.  In this blog I will be demonstrating the proper positioning of the collars and rules as to when not to use the equipment.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you see a trainer before using ANY training equipment with your dog. It's not just the collar its how its used. An improperly used collar or harness can do more harm than good or worsen a problem you were trying to correct.

More commonly known as the "Choke" chain.
When it is fit improperly it will "choke the dog".
When finding the right size for your dog it should be just big enough to fit over your dogs head. It should seem like a tight fit over the head because it will still be loose on their neck.
It should be fit to stay up higher on their neck to be the most effective.
The use of a slip collar should be to make a quick "pop" or jerk like correction to get the dogs attention. The leash should NEVER stay tight EVER.
PLEASE seek out a trainers help in using ANY new equipment.
Proper fitting of a slip collar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prxMVb4xa80
Whichever side you are on the chain should slip over the top.
The video shows the proper use and fitting with the way the collar is on that would be correct if you have your dog walking on your left side.

So you can see how on the right it slips from the top this allows you to keep it loose..you loosen the leash and the collar loosens. If it is on wrong incorrectly on the left picture it will tighten and stay tight. That is why it is called a "choke chain" that is not how we are going to use it. 

There are a few different types of slip collars

• Standard Chain collar - is what you are probably familiar with

• Nylon Slip Collar - softer collar. Can be better for dogs with sensitive skin - often bully breeds and catches less in the hair of long haired breeds. They don't tend to "look as bad" they are just as effective if used properly as the chain collar.

• Toggle collar by Herm Sprenger. This collar doesn't have to fit over the head the unique "toggle" design is made so that it can fit like a bracelet the toggle fits through the hole so it can be fitted around the neck. This can be especially nice for dogs whose heads are extra big compared to their necks like ... mastiffs, rottweilers, pitties, some goldens, male labs..etc. Being able to have a slightly tighter fit can make it more affective. 

• Dominant Dog Collar. Helps to keep it up higher and stay more affective. Leerburg has a great video on how to fit it. http://leerburg.com/746.htm

• Nylon / Leather Slip collar with a stopper.  - These collars are similar to the dominant dog collar as it helps to keep it up higher thus keeps the collar more effective.  The stopper is moveable but it sticks well.

Just like all other collars we do not recommend that you just let the dog pull against it.
We also never recommend that any collar is left on any dog unsupervised. In a crate, house, backyard or any other area unsupervised. But PLEASE Microchip your dogs!

Respect, Leadership, Teamwork in dog - human relationships

I was recently invited by a great trainer friend Brittany Robinson who owns Desert Dogs in Arizona to an online facebook group for dog trainers to connect.
There was a great post today by many wonderful trainers discussing these words and what they really mean.
Some of the wordage is credited to the trainers that are members of "Rational, Reasonable, Respectful dog trainer discussion" I can't take credit for all of the wording but I can agree with them and do run my business based on these ideas.
I wanted to share some of the ideas and what we believe these mean.
These truly are the fundamentals that all of our training is based on and it is important to have a good understanding of it.
What do these words really mean when it comes down to working with our dogs.

I want to take away some of the myths about these words first then we will dive into what these words mean and what they mean to us while we are working with you and your dogs.
MYTHS about these words

• Nothing is earned by who can scare the dog or who has the loudest, deepest voice - that is fear nothing more nothing less
• It's not about Dominance or "showing your dog who's boss"

RESPECT

• Respect is earned! 
• Respect = Trust 
• You have to be a safe place.
• Respect is returned after its given.
• I've heard someone say "be someone your dog wants to follow"
• In training I will point out when a dog is showing a lack of respect in a behavior 
• example: jumping on the owner can be excitement, play or it can be to try and take control there is a big difference in these 3 things and this is a time when I will point out lack of respect.
• Think about it... Think about the people you respect... What made you respect them?
• Was it because they were calm and consistent in their behavior? Reliable? Trustworthy?
• Just be those things for your dog and you will earn your dogs respect!
• Here's another great example for respect and leadership

LEADERSHIP

• How you carry yourself
• How you and your dog interact.
• Calm shows confidence
• Example:
• Think about the best boss and the worst boss you've ever had. The guy who yelled and ranted and went on a power trip, v.s. the guy who wanted you to succeed, helped you to do so, and who workers wanted to work for and not disappointing. 
• Giving your dog direction
• Perfect example of this is for a dog like "Io" a shy little chihuahua mix in littles playgroup will sometimes observe and stand off to the side I will call her over to me - giving her a form of direction something to do instead of shutting down in a nervous unsure situation for her. She then appreciates the direction because I helped her in a situation where she didn't know what to do. These little simple things help to build a bond. 
• I have never met a dog that did not appreciate fair, decisive calm assertive leadership.

TEAMWORK

• It's all about building a bond with your dog and working as a team. 
• But someone has to be team captain and that should be you the owner.
• The more balanced the dog the more we interact as buddies the more problems or behaviors the dog has the more I guide to help with leadership so the dog can get or move to being more comfortable.

Think about how dogs interact and work in a pack showing leadership and gaining respect among each other.

They are calm and confident. They do correct each other but are always fair. 

The quality and timing and energy behind the correction is more important than the force of the correction itself. Corrections can be half of respect the other half is the ability to step up in situations that dogs need leadership and successfully manage the situation calmly and quickly.

I hold the same true of when I work with dogs.. sometimes correction is necessary, but it needs to be fair, the dog needs to know why the correction is being implemented and their is no emotion behind the correction just calm confident and quick and no lingering emotion or upset. You want your dog to admire you and start to WILLINGLY cooperate and follow you. 

What do these words mean to you?

Confidence Building

Do you have a dog that is unsure or fearful of new objects and noises?
There are many very simple confidence building games you can play with your dog to help boost their confidence.

This post is inspired by Kona a very sweet but sensitive old english bulldog.
She is very cautious and unsure of new sounds and objects.

Start off very simple with something not very scary and your dogs favorite treats.
We started with a metal food bowl and tipped it upside down.
She didn't even want to come near it.. I lured her inch by inch with a treat and then I set the treat ontop of the bowl. The only way she could get the treat was to eat it off the bowl...she took the treat but also bumped the bowl on accident and got spooked and jumped backwards so I encouraged her and got her confidently eating a treat off of the bowl.
Then I encouraged her to touch the bowl with her paw...every time she barely touched it she got treated until I got her to put her paw on the upside down bowl.
See video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWesyjpmjZY

Then we moved to another game... treats in an upside down cup.
I showed her the treats and got her interested then put the cup ontop of the treats and encouraged her to sniff and check it out. If her nose touched the cup I lifted the cup and let her eat the treats. Then i made it a little harder to where she had to nudge the cup a little to get the treats.
See video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nh7iWDtGH78

A few fun simple games for you to play with your unsure, sensitive pup.
HAVE FUN! Keep it simple... small successes add up quickly !

Flea and Tick Prevention - Comparisons

Summer is here, which means fun, hiking trips, lakes, camping and much more. With all of the fun stuff comes those annoying little pests... Fleas, Ticks and Mosquitos and even rattlesnakes- Those that carry awful diseases that can harm your pets.

Flea + Tick Preventatives
There are so many different kinds available what to choose????....
To start with here is an overview with a comparison chart
I advise you NOT to use Bio Spot products - there are cases of dogs dying from use of Bio Spot.
Base your decision on you and your dogs lifestyle.
For example my dogs and I go hiking alot in places that their might be ticks so I make sure that the preventative mine are on includes Ticks. If you live in the city and just walk your neighborhood you may not need a preventative against Ticks.

Product	Active Ingredient	Species & Minimum Age	Dosage & Administration	Effects on External Parasites	Comments
For Use on Pets
Advantage II for Cats	Imidacloprid Pyriproxyfen	For cats 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, eggs and larvae. Does not kill ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Advantage II for Dogs	Imidacloprid Pyriproxyfen	For dogs 7+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills lice and adult fleas, eggs and larvae. Does not kill ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Advantage Multi for Cats	Imidacloprid Moxidectin	For cats 9+ weeks and 2+ lbs	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ear mites. Does not kill ticks.	Prevents heartworm; treats and controls roundworms and hookworms. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Advantage Multi for Dogs	Imidacloprid Moxidectin	For dogs 7+ weeks and 3+ lbs Do NOT use on cats.	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas. Does not kill ticks.	Prevents heartworm; treats and controls roundworms, whipworms and hookworms. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals. Do NOT use on cats.
K9 Advantix II for Dogs	Imidacloprid Permethrin Pyriproxyfen	For dogs 7+ weeks Do NOT use on cats.	Topical: Once/month	Kills flea eggs and larvae. Kills and repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Repels biting flies. Kills lice.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing dogs. Do NOT use on cats.
Bio Spot Flea and Tick Spray for Cats and Kittens	Pyrethrin Methoprene	For cats 12+ weeks	Topical: Spray once every 2 months	Kills and repels adult fleas and ticks; kills flea eggs.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing cats.
Bio Spot Defense Flea and Tick Spray for Cats and Kittens	Etofenprox Methoprene	For cats 12+ weeks	Topical: Spray once every month; may be reapplied two weeks after initial application.	Kills and repels adult fleas and ticks; kills flea eggs.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing cats.
Bio Spot-Spot On for Cats and Kittens	Etofenprox Methoprene	For cats 12+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills flea eggs and adult fleas and deer ticks; kills and repels mosquitoes.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing cats.
Bio Spot Defense Spot On Flea and Tick Control for Dogs	Etofenprox Methoprene	For dogs 6 months or older	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks; stops development of flea eggs. Kills and repels mosquitoes.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing dogs. Do NOT use on cats.
Bio Spot Defense Flea and Tick Spray for Dogs and Puppies	Etofenprox Methoprene	For dogs 10+ weeks	Topical: Spray once every month; may be reapplied two weeks after initial application.	Kills and repels adult fleas and ticks; kills flea eggs.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing dogs. Do NOT use on cats.
Capstar	Nitenpyram	For dogs and cats 4+ weeks, and 2+ lbs	Oral: As needed (can be given daily)	Kills adult fleas. Starts to work in 30 minutes; no residual activity.	Safe to use in pregnant or nursing dogs and cats. Can be used with other flea products.
Certifect for Dogs	Fipronil Methoprene Amitraz	For dogs 8+ weeks and over 5 lbs	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals. Do NOT use on cats.
Comfortis for Dogs	Spinosad	For dogs 14+ weeks	Oral: Once/month	Kills adult fleas.	Caution in breeding females and those with epilepsy.
Fiproguard for Cats	Fipronil	For cats 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks and chewing lice.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Fiproguard Max for Cats	Fipronil Etofenprox	For cats 12+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks and chewing lice.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Fiproguard for Dogs	Fipronil	For dogs 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Fiproguard Max for Dogs	Fipronil Cyphenothrin	For dogs 12+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Frontline Plus for Cats	Fipronil Methoprene	For cats 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks. Prevents flea eggs, larvae and pupae from maturing. Treats and controls chewing lice.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Frontline Plus for Dogs	Fipronil Methoprene	For dogs 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks. Prevents flea eggs, larvae and pupae from maturing. Treats and controls chewing lice. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Frontline Spray for Cats and Dogs	Fipronil	For dogs 8+ weeks and cats 8+ weeks	Topical spray: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. Aids in control of sarcoptic mange in dogs.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Frontline Top Spot for Cats and Kittens	Fipronil	For cats 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Frontline Top Spot for Dogs and Puppies	Fipronil	For dogs 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
PetArmor for Cats	Fipronil	For cats 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas and ticks and chewing lice.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
PetArmor for Dogs	Fipronil	For dogs 8+ weeks	Topical: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, ticks, and chewing lice. Aids in the control of sarcoptic mange.	Approved for use in breeding, pregnant, or nursing animals. Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated or aged animals.
Preventic Tick Collar for Dogs	Amitraz	For dogs 12+ weeks Do NOT use on cats.	Collar: Once/3 months	Kills ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing dogs. Do NOT use on cats.
Program Injectable for Cats	Lufenuron (IDI)	For cats 6+ weeks	Once/6 months.	Stops the development of flea eggs. Does not kill adult fleas. Does not kill ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Program Flavor Tabs for Dogs and Cats	Lufenuron (IDI)	For dogs 4+ weeks and cats 4+ weeks	Once/month	Stops the development of flea eggs. Does not kill adult fleas. Does not kill ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Program Suspension for Cats	Lufenuron (IDI)	For cats 6+ weeks	Once/month	Stops the development of flea eggs. Does not kill adult fleas. Does not kill ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, medicated, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals.
Revolution	Selamectin	For dogs 6+ weeks and cats 8+ weeks	Topical liquid: Once/month	Kills adult fleas, flea eggs, and American dog tick; treats and controls ear mites, controls sarcoptic mites (dogs).	Prevents heartworms; controls roundworms and hookworms (cats). Appears to be safe to use in pregnant or nursing dogs and cats. Use with caution on sick, medicated or underweight animals.
Scalibor for Dogs	Deltamethrin	For dogs 12+ weeks	Collar	Kills adult fleas and ticks.	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals. Available through veterinarians only.
Sentinel Flavor Tabs for Dogs	Lufenuron (IDI), Milbemycin Oxime	For dogs 4+ weeks, and 2+ lbs	Oral tablet: Once/month	Stops development of flea eggs and larvae. Does not kill ticks or adult fleas.	Prevents heartworms; controls roundworms, whipworms and hookworms. Safe to use in pregnant or nursing dogs.
Trifexis for Dogs	Spinosad Milbemycin Oxime	For dogs 8+ weeks, and 5+ lbs	Oral tablet: Once/month	Kills adult fleas	Prevents heartworms; treats and controls hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. Use with caution in dogs with epilepsy and breeding dogs.
Vectra for Cats and Kittens	Dinotefuran Pyriproxifen	For cats 8+weeks	Topical liquid: Once/month	Kills adult fleas; controls all flea stages	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals. Available through veterinarians only.
Vectra for Dogs and Puppies	Dinotefuran Pyriproxifen	For dogs 8+ weeks	Topical liquid: Once/month	Kills adult fleas; controls all flea stages	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals. Do NOT use on cats. Available through veterinarians only.
Vectra 3D for Dogs	Permethrin Dinotefuran Pyriproxifen	For dogs 7+ weeks Do NOT use on cats	Topical liquid: Once/month	Repels and kills fleas, ticks, mosquitos, lice, sand flies, and mites; controls all flea stages	Consult with veterinarian before using on sick, aged, pregnant, or nursing animals. Do NOT use on cats. Available through veterinarians only.

For more information on the mode of action and safety of ingredients in flea and tick control products see Ingredients in Tick & Flea Control Products in Cats and Dogs.
This table was pulled from http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+2094&aid=2627